December 19, home from Kenya, our fourth African country. Kenya's territory lies on the equator and covers a diverse and expansive terrain. It is bordered by Tanzania to the south and southwest, Uganda to the west, South Sudan to the north-west, Ethiopia to the north and Somalia to the north-east. Kenya gained independence from English rule in 1963 and retains English and also Swahili, languages. We spent 10 days mostly in the capital city Nairobi, with friends, Filipa and Andy with Tiago and Miguel. Hanging out together, visiting a tea plantation, the Giraffe Centre and a Christmas Carol service at the boys' school, it was a full and fun time.
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Feeding time (always!) at the Giraffe Centre, Nairobi |
The Giraffe Centre is only a few kms out of Nairobi and seeks to protect Giraffe life and educate Kenyan youth on animal conservation.
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View to the Giraffe Manor where you can stay and have the giraffe join you for breakfast |
We spent a glorious Saturday out at Kiambethu Farm at Limuru, 40km from Nairobi. At an altitude of 2500 metres Limuru is ideal for coffee and tea production. Kiambethu was bought and farmed by AB McDonell in 1910. He was the first person to grow, make and sell tea commercially in Kenya - now one of Kenya’s biggest exports. Five generations have lived on the farm and it is currently run by his granddaughter Fiona. We enjoyed a talk by Fiona on tea growing, harvesting, selling and consumption. I now know after warming the pot, to introduce the tea leaves, a tiny amount of hot water and allow the pot to sit with the lid on before filling the pot with hot water. Chai is a very popular tea method in Kenya. Milk is boiled in a big pot on the stove before the leaves are added then cooked a little more and then poured to take with sugar. Settlers from India who came to build the Uganda Railway in 1896 introduced the tradition.
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tea beans |
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Family Bowes at the Tea Plantation |
The tea plantation includes the original manor house and acres of garden, flora and fauna.
Beautiful. I could have spent the day here ..a little oasis of peace.
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Our guide showing us the difference between tea and coffee leaves |
The difference being that tea leaves have serrated leaves.
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Stick-fence |
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The Tea Flower |
So many beautiful flowers and many were similar or the same to Nana's garden.
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Tiago and our other bush guide |
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Tea-pickers |
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Another International gathering...Indonesia, Philippines,Kenya, Iran and me |
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Hard graft |
Kenya is an advanced Africa cousin to Angola but this is still a frequent sight in Kenya.
The other highlight of our holiday was a 3 day trip to Masai Mara. The Mara is a large game reserve in Narok County, Kenya; sharing a border with the Serengeti National Park in Mara Region, Tanzania. The name is from the Maasai people (the ancestral inhabitants of the area) and their description of the area when looked at from afar: "Mara," means "spotted," - the description for the circles of trees, scrub, savanna, and cloud shadows that mark the area.
Up early to see the sun rise.
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Its a bit cooler when the sun's been away |
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The animals coming out to graze |
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we almost took a ride... |
...but decided it would be more interesting to see the animals up close. And it was. Maybe if we ever witness The Great Migration.
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This one's for you, Mam |
and a sun setting on the Mara with a beer.
Everywhere there are animals co-existing.
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A busy landscape |
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Topi, zebra and warthog |
There are over 450 species of birds in the Mara.
My favourite funky bird, the Crown Crane.
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Masai Crown Crane |
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Kite |
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Juvenile vulture |
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Vibrant kingfisher |
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Masai female ostrich |
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Kingfisher |
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Roller bird |
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Egyptian Geese |
Another early morning and a trip to the Tanzania border for breakfast. As in the Serengeti, the wildebeest are the dominant inhabitants of the Maasai Mara, and their numbers are estimated in the millions. Around July of each year, these animals migrate north from the Serengeti plains in search of fresh pasture, and return to the south around October. The Great Migration is one of the most impressive natural events worldwide, involving some 1,300,000 wildebeest, 500,000 Thomson's gazelles, 97,000 Topi, 18,000 elands, and 200,000 zebras. These migrants are followed along their annual, circular route by predators, most notably lions and hyena.
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Safari Jeroen loving the wilderbeest |
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The Italian family we shared one of our safari's with |
Our guide, Karisa, told us that we were seeing the very end of the migration.
We drove along part of the Kenya/Tanzania border (and popped across so we can say we've visited 5 African countries now).
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Water buffalo |
These old fella's are in their twilight years. Their horns which usually last 10 year cycles will eventually disintegrate and they will become prey or die of old age.
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Languid crocs |
We saw literally hundreds of elephants! What a treat after spotting our 'one' elephant in Kissama/Angola.
Bath time! This chap had a good roll around in the mud.
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Family outing |
The fire on this hill burned for the whole time we were in the Mara.
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The Leader and his girls' |
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Giraffe under their food |
Giraffe dictate the shape and height of these trees all over the Mara.
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A pregnant hyena |
When driving along the track I saw what I thought was a face in the dirt ....it turned out to be this little fella.
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Resting hyena |
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Silver back jackal |
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Looking for breakfast |
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King of the Jungle |
Hakuna Matata!
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Not interested in us at all |
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I'm still hungry |
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Three Lion cousins |
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Time for a cuddle |
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Growing up together |
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Kindred Kings |
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These cute looking lions are on the look-out to kill any cubs that are not their own |
And these 3 Lionesses are alert for the predators who will kill their offspring.
and another bunch out strolling with their brood...
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Aware that one of the babies' is behind |
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Wait for me! |
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3 of the 5 cubs |
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Out and about with the kids |
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One little fella got left behind but caught up to the clan |
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Mongoose watching over the plains |
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The Pyjama Lily |
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The endangered Black Rhino |
We were very happy to come across these endangered rhino...these dark grey, not black, rhinoceros' were nearly extinct due to widespread poaching. Now, there are roughly 5000 in Africa. The White Rhino (which is actually the indigenous rhino...the black one came from Europe) numbers were almost extinct also however a successful conservation program brought them back to currently around 20,000.
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A rare spotting of 4 black rhino's in one gathering (one off shot) |
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The Mara 'Sausage Tree' |
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Pumbaa. the warthog |
Also known as The Kenya Number One Express! They run with their tails erect and it plops down when Pumbaa stops.
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Warthog clash |
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A little snoozy |
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Enjoying a dirt bath |
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Feels good! |
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One of my favourite shots |
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It was so wonderful to see how many baby animals were in the Mara |
Part of one of the game drives was a visit to a traditional Masai village. Jeroen was taught how to make a fire in the 'men's hut'.
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Learning how to light a fire with a sandalwood base |
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Joining in with the Masai...jumping to get more girlfriends! |
Not jumping very high then Jeroen?!!!!If Jeroen jumps higher than the chief he can take over the village and, get more girlfriends.
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Joining in the dance |
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Welcome to the Mara |
My turn...time to be dressed by the women and join for a boogie.
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The women coming to greet me |
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Bending down a long way to be decked in jewels |
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The Chief explaining to me what I need to do |
Chief Richard is looking for another wife. He has two already - first choice by his parents, the second choice by the first wife and the third wife is his choice. He's not fussy..as long as she has more than 10 cows. The wives and other family women are below.
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Jeroen and his women folk |
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The cattle enclosure |
Cows are highly prized and at night are protected in this type of enclosure from lions and other predators. A Masai diet includes meat, blood and mil;. No vegetables or fruit.
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A decorated hut |
The women build the huts and are decorated in some cases. Being built from dung, each house lasts 10 years. The Masai then move to another patch of ground and start again.
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Old Masai |
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Bartering is encouraged and our purchases are on the ground for payment |
This is our home away from home, Olonana Camp Lodge. Settled beside the river and the resident Hippo's and super spacious tent with all meals etc...were a couple of nights of luxury.
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Watching out over the Hippo's from our balcony |
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These big fella's didn't move far |
Back to Nairobi for our final days with the family.
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Reconnected with Filipa |
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Reindeer-Jeroen connected with Santa |
And now, back in Luanda for an approaching Christmas and NY.
December 21, and final day at the hospital for the year. Today we (over 25) made Santa pencil holders. It was busy! Word got out that I was there and people kept visiting, bringing their babies, and children continued to come. After making the containers (recycled from plastic milk bottles) the children each received some colour pencils, balloons, sweeties etc plus some printed Christmas activities to do over the next days. Lots of smiles and grateful children. Nice. My head is busy with next projects. Needing some help, Rasa!
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A bit shy at first but proud of her creation |
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Feliz Natal -atividade para as criancas |
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A bit difficult for a lot of the children with IV's in their hands/arms. |
Not an arm or hand splint in sight yet these children protect their precious IV site as I have never seen before.
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A smooch for my helpers, Laurinda (L) and Raquel |
December 25, Merry Christmas/Feliz Natal from Angola. Yesterday we joined for Christmas mince pies at the embassy and today, I washed the dog. Exciting stuff!
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Welcome to the British Embassy |
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A freshly-washed and dressed for Christmas, Sr. Paco |
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Look what I found in the local supermarket! |
I found a few extra Kenya pics - also to mention that every local public place we visited was a military exercise in terrorist detection...supermarkets, malls etc....a hark back to the 2013 Westgate shopping mall gun attack by terrorists killing over 60 people.
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Our safari guide, Nelson Karisa |
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The Masai gathering under a tree |
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Our pilot, Katherine |
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Our plane to and from the Mara |
Our trip to the Mara took 45 minutes so we were curious why it would take us an hour longer to get back to Nairobe...queue four take-offs and landings in between to relocate other passengers. The planes and landings on red dirt airstrips gave a super smooth experience.
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The spotted mara |
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Breakfast on the plains |
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End of Movember and it's disappearing! |
December 29, Christmas is over and Santa was spotted in Luanda!
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Santa changed his transport mode |
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