May 16, Yesterday marked the date that the rain would stop. It hasn't rained for a couple of weeks already but there is still major water-damage on the roads with very large potholes and broken storm pipes, flooding some areas. Always an adventure to go out.
We have a new driver, Silvestre, as Edgar has gone back to driving school. Almost 2 years with him but sadly he made one too many wrong choices. Silvestre is older, calm and a good driver. We are thankful for him.
Today out with Silvestre to the supermarket and saw a young disabled guy on crutches, hitch a ride on the back of a passing concrete mixing truck.
I thought I would feature some of the buildings we see every day here.
This is the Banco de Angola, situated opposite the Marginal, circa 1865.
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| An older photo of the bank, showing also the as-yet developed Marginal but you can see how grand the structure is. |
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| Typical Portuguese detailing |
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| Banco de Angola |
May 23, yesterday I travelled with a group of friends to Imbondeiro do Kwanza which is a restaurant/swimming pool in the South near the Kwanza Bridge. The facilities are basic however the salt-water pool is devine. This water-baby was in heaven. What a real treat to escape from the noise, pollution and chaos of the city.
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| Beautiful salt-water pool |
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| Mum and family off to sell |
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| and us lot, lounging around. Cheers Sandra! |
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| Chef, proud of the recent catch |
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| L-R: Elaine, Katie, Christy, Dawnia, Sandra and I. Out of photo are Kasia and Joelle. |
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| Birthday girl. |
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| Shaft-tailed Whydah |
This small sparrow-like bird is almost endemic to Angola (although it is seen often here). The male grows a 4-feathered tail during mating season and sheds it afterwards then he returns to a duller plumage like the female. The Shaft-tailed Whydah is approximately 11cm and it's tail can be 16cm.
June 1, another few weeks gone by dealing with a bad back, fall on the pool steps, migraines and last week the flu. I am so sick of myself! But a couple of nice outings recently.
Saturday we joined Filipa and her family at the Portuguese School Gala which was a street market...great atmosphere, really geared for the children. Simple fun games, food and all things Portuguese. Wonderful.
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| Sitting on the curb for lunch with Filipa and boys. |
With the downturn in the oil price last year, there are many changes within the oil industry. Many people are being repatriated to the UK or elsewhere and there are people leaving here in droves.
Saturday evening we had a farewell for friends, June and Eddie who are moving back to Scotland.
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| June and Eddie with their Angolan bagpipe |
June and Eddie were presented with homemade Bagpipes. Being Angolan, they don't actually work so the bagpipes were piped in via Skype. Brilliant.
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| Alex and Cynara |
This lovely couple will be married in November in Rio de Janeiro and we have accepted an invitation to attend. I always loved saying 'Tierra del Fuego' when we were studying Brazil for social studies at school...and my growing up name was Sharona....Filipa believes I have a Portuguese bone!. Looking forward to that trip.
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| Jeroen eyeing up the cake. Jeroen, Kasia (Poland), June (Scotland), Jade (background, China), Alex (Canada). |
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| Happy Birthday Eddie |
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| Jade, Sarah and Mark |
Jade and Sarah are nice friends I go to the China market with.
Today, I had an outing to the River Kwanza for a cruise...I sat on the top deck. What a spectacular day. We also lunched at the Lodge where there are reports there is a resident crocodile who dragged two young foals in for eating recently. So there are signs advising not to go near the water. We didn't spot any crocs or monkeys today.
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| Kwanza Lodge from the water |
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| Dragonfly....loving our new camera |
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| Marshes |
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| Fishermen on the river |
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| Not sure I would live this close to the crocs... |
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| Another beautiful African sunshine day. |
June 8. On Friday I visited the photo shop to have my passport photo taken. It is a tiny loja, packed with people queuing. As it is warm, I was wearing a sundress but was informed by the photographer that I needed to wear a jacket. Which I didn't have. After pointing to a rack of jackets, he indicated one that I should wear to cover my shoulders. 'This is Angola' he told me. The problem I had was that the jacket he indicated was several sizes too small for me. I tried to wear it just over my shoulders, but no, that was not good enough. I had to squeeze my arms into this tiny thing and have my photo taken. Trying very hard not to laugh!
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| Wearing my Brown-other-person jacket |
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| Action at the church on Sunday |
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| These people were lined up for hours in the sun before they marched off in procession |
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| Sunday wash day |
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| Early Luanda photo |
This photo was forwarded to me by Jill. Her husband found a stash of old photographs of Luanda. As you can see, our church across the road is seen so TA (our apartment) will be at the front left of the street.
I have just returned from a walk on the Marginal with friends June and Kasia. Sadly we witnessed a young teenage boy being fished by Police out of the water. RIP boy.
Jeroen came home at lunchtime and told me his colleague had an armed hold-up burglary by 6 men who tied him up at his house over the weekend. Thankfully he wasn't hurt. It doesn't pay to be complacent in this place.
June 11, today I went to help my friend Noi cook an English dinner for her husband (cottage pie). In return, Noi will teach me to cook Thai food. Good deal I thought.
This is our maid, Lurdes. I have struggled for the 2 years we have been here having someone come in and mooch around the house. I have whittled her down to one day a week where she comes to clean and do ironing. I have to sort into less-burnable versus highly burnable clothes first then I do the rest as Lurde, bless her, has a very capable way of smashing the cups and scorching the clothes. I constantly have to remind myself she has a job because of us.
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| Lurde and I |
This afternoon I went with Lurdes to her home in Caquaco which is on the outskirts of Luanda (where the guys in wheelchairs live that I visit sometimes). I wanted to give my old bike to her family. Lurde has virtually no English but it was good to meet her husband, Miguel and two of their children, Tilmo and Fabio who also have no English. The older boys were at College. Miguel is a teacher at the military although I don't know what he teaches.
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| Tica (driver from pool), Lurde, Miguel and I |
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| Tilmo, Lurde, Fabio and Miguel |
Lurdes lives in what I think is quite a grand house in the slums. There was no power when I visited. I am happy that I could communicate reasonably well in Portuguese which gives me inspiration to continue learning.
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| One of Lurdes dogs...she has three which I didn't know before today. They are inside and are well looked after |
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| Always a pile of old vehicles somewhere in Angola and often presided over by the flag of Angola |
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| Another bus/taxi cemetary |
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| A Dog's Lunchbox |
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| Home from school |
June 16, out to the golfing range with Sandra; my first time with a golf club in hand. What a beautiful venue - relaxing and out of the hustle and bustle. We spotted a couple of croc-sized lizards, making their way slowly across the green.
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| Part of the green |
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Where the crocs' may be
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June 19, out fishing yesterday but dreaded nausea overtook again so a miserable couple of hours until we abandoned the unsuccessful fishing (too cold) and then spent another lovely time on the island for lunch.
Today, back to the bank to finally get internet banking sorted. We have had a local account here for almost a year but have had no statements. We suspect money has gone missing. It's been a few trips backwards and forwards to sign forms etc but today I brought home the required internet code to access our account. Imagine my delight in discovering that internet banking gives as much information as an eftpos receipt! Hopeless.
Entering the bank was also an adventure as there was a huge crowd, with armed security and Police and one guy who was restrained with makeshift handcuffs. I have no idea what was happening but I didn't hang around to find out.
June 28, Last weekend we went with a group of 20 to a lake outside Luanda to cycle. As newbies, we chose the shorter route while the hardened cyclists a more intense ride.
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| Ready, set, go... |
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| Diane and Nick, intrepid cyclists. This couple are leaving Luanda for good tomorrow. |
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| Kasia, Irene, Cynara and I |
This is the 'leisure' group. We tootled alongside the river slowly as there were massive ruts in the dirt track. When I learned how to navigate them I could go faster. Jeroen went full speed ahead with Adrenaline-junkie, Alex.
The track was busy with numerous guys on motorcycles, courteously pulling aside so we could pass or zipping by as we stopped for them. A lot of people were cultivating their crops with large machetes. It felt very safe along the track, with people going about their business and wishing us a 'bom dia'.
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| Bootleg seller |
These yellow liquid containers are everywhere in Angola. I had always thought they were water cans but in fact they are filled with alchohol. I guess it is made from cassava or other root vegetable. I will try to find out more.
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| Some residents shacks near where we stopped for a cool drink |
I was able to talk with some of the women who were curious about what we were doing. I was also told I should be playing basketball with my height.
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| Silvestre, our new driver |
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Wash day at the river
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| Local bikies |
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| Woman with large machete cutting the sugar cane for sale |
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Egg-man
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| Another disused carnival ride |
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| Fetching water |
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| Back home to fix a puncture |
A large part of expat life and conversation revolves around visa's. Due to the downturn in the oil economy, several of the expats here have been relocated to UK as their visa's have not been approved/returned. There have been many farewells over the last few days for others who have been made redundant or repatriated. A difficult time. I especially have found it hard to say goodbye to friends and soon, two very dear friends will also leave.
Jeroen and I have spent the last 3 months waiting for our visa's to be processed. In the meantime, as it is necessary to carry identity papers around, we have been issued with photocopies to use.
This is mine - do you recognise me?:
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| Sharon's neck in the other-persons jacket |
I hope that my passport visa doesn't get issued like this otherwise it will have to be returned and we will have to wait another couple of months to get it reissued. And that means we cannot travel anywhere.
July 5, I went to the clinic in order to get a medical clearance to use the gym here. I also got a prescription for paracetamol/ibuprofen while I was there. ($5-10 to get a pack of 20 paracetamol over the counter here). After an incident free, swift time seeing the Doc and receiving certificate, I queued at the pharmacy (with my elbows out and feet apart to stop those behind constantly trying to push in front). Finally I received my prescription, noting that the bag was light and not all of the prescription. When I returned to the clinic the doctor straight away asked me if I had received the full prescription. It seems that the remainder of the paracetamol (I had received 10 %) of prescription would be sold on the black market. Another learning curve.
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| View from British Embassy..thousands of homes destroyed across the road |
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| Amongst the rubble |
Friday I looked after Milli, a new little dog to look after in a couple of weeks. We took a walk with her caregiver and were freaked out when the Fort canons started firing regularly (in honour of the visiting French President we heard).
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| Milli, another Luanda dog |
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| let me down to play! |
July 13, a busy few days looking after Filipa's boys as they prepare to leave Luanda. And two cats, Felix and Boris returned for a stay.
This is the Mausoleum of Agostinho Neto, honouring Angola's first President. He ruled Angola since release from Portuguese rule in mid 1970's. The grounds are spacious and green, always well maintained. Hope to get inside for a visit one day.
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| Rocket like mausoleum in Luanda |
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| Giant statue also honouring the First President |
July 25, This last week I have visited the Hospital Pediatrico Luis Bernadino. I had an introduction to a friend of Henriettes to view the hospital. Nucha took me to her department (paeds craft etc for inpatients) and together we met with the hospital director.
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| Baby weigh day outside hospital |
Next week I will return to receive an official welcome and tour then after that it seems I can go there whenever I want, to do whatever I want! I have no idea where this will lead but I will go and see.
There may be a possibility to work on a research project.
We have been looking after Boris and Felix again for 2 weeks and straight after taking them home, we had Milli join us. She has settled in well and is very playful.
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| Out for a walk with Milli |
We enjoyed a nice walk yesterday and saw this large display of approx. 80 large photographs showcasing international aerial shots. And we spotted another bridal party heading to the Marginal for their wedding photo's.
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| Photography expose on the Marginal. |
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| Another Marginal bride |
Yesterday I again visited Sao Paulo market in the hunt for more fabric. It was an interesting experience in that we were not escorted this time by guards (I went with African Jane and Portuguese speaking, Henriette). We made our choices and as we were readying to leave the shop, we heard high-pitched screaming and sounds of fighting. Indeed, a bandido was trying to leave the shop without paying. Locals don't wait for Police..they dish out the street justice...namely beating until there is blood. We decided to stay in the shop until it had cleared.
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| Sao Paulo market beggar and vendors |
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Jam-packed with merchandise
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| Waiting for customers |
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| Pineapple boys |
Outside again, I was aware of a group of boys surrounding me and isolating me from my friends. And indeed, I was the victim of pick-pocketing although I realised soon enough so elbowed my way through. Nothing was taken but they did get my (I thought) discreet pocket zip undone. Could have been worse.
July 28, Terrible smell out cycling on the Marginal this morning. Disgusting!
Looking after Milli and the cats, keeping them separate in two apartments so a bit of toing and froing but good to keep busy.
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| Miss Milli, just had a bath and running crazy around the house |
Tomorrow, I head back to the Paeds hospital to meet Dr. Bernardino.
I discovered that Angola has a collection of deadly snakes, even in Luanda! I haven't see any yet but I recall Filipa telling me she saw 5 gardeners perched up high on the garden wall to escape a snake.
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| Black necked spitting cobra, thankfully found in Zaire province of Angola |
Sadly we missed the snake presentation hosted by the Angola Field Group, including first aid for snake bites.
August 1, out for a walk with Milli on the Marginal. Sunny and lots of people wanting their photo taken with us.
Also saw this dance group being filmed.
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| Bang, bang.. |
August 7, Finally I have my passport back in hand so we can make plans for a holiday. It has taken 2 months and I feared that the 'neck' photo would appear in my passport making it invalid. But thankfully it is a good photo...of my original picture from 2 years ago! So much for needing a new photo for each visa application.
Last night I attended the Angola Field Group presentation on PaleoAngola. A group of passionate palaeontologists who shared their impressive finds from their digs in Angola. They call Angola 'a fossil museum in the ground'.
I learned about the Angolatitan (a land dinosaur discovered here in 2005)
The Angolasaurus is a reptilian (think Komodo dragon) carnivorous pre-historic 'T-Rex dinosaur of the sea'.
Fascinating evening.
Today, I visited with Henriette to Fenador to see the deficientes (wheelchair guys) who were hosting a meeting. We stayed after the meeting for lunch, including two types of funge, dried meat stew and various types of fish/vegetables. Funge de bombo, more common in northern Angola, is a paste or porridge of cassava (also called manioc or yuca), made from cassava flour. It is gelatinous in consistency and gray in color. Pirão, yellow in color and similar to polenta, is made from cornflour and is more common in the south. Very tasty and I particularly liked the cornmeal funge. It is a staple in all Angolan homes, with poor families eating it at every meal.
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| Deficient, Beatriz and I |
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| The Fenador crew with Hent and I |
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| Henriette and Diago discussing plans for new school |
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| Happy people |
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| Funge for lunch |
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| Street life |
The trip home included seeing two dead dogs, a dead person by the side of the road, 5 children riding an abandoned (engine-less) motorcycle with no tyres, also children playing chicken on the busiest roads...mind boggling. I talked with a man who was shot in the back by the Military during the war (resulting in his paralysis, age 15) and on the way home chatted with a woman who is one of 40 children. Seven hours out and about listening to Portuguese was a great opportunity to practice my language.
August 11, a nice outing on Saturday for a walking tour around historic Luanda. I had walked this before but it was interesting to repeat it with a different group and as a bonus included a visit to the Anthropological museum.
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| Traditional baby carrier |
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| Coronation chair |
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Various masks worn for different ceremonies
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A type of voodoo is part of the heritage here. In the back left of the photo above you can see figures that have nails embedded in them.
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| View from inside |
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| Beautifully preserved museum building |
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| Party kids |
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| Angolan drummer |
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Another fantastic graffiti
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| Time stopped |
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| Mr Marley celebrated |
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| Soviet influences everywhere |
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| Old ways survive here |
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| Juggling balls |
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| My faithful Bible study friends |
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| Our beautiful Henriette |
Henriette, who has lived and loved in Angola for over 20 years will be leaving soon. We held a farewell lunch for her yesterday. We will miss you Hent!
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| A big part of my life here |
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| Hent and Lily singing |
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| Henriette and Tako and amigas |
Yesterday I heard a lot of commotion outside on the street. I saw a frustrated rubbish collection truck driver and colleagues who could not access the bins because of a car blocking them in. When the driver did not arrive to move the car, the guys dug through the rubbish to find the smelliest refuse to smear over the bonnet and windscreen of the car! A lot of people stopped to take photos and comment. An hour later I checked - the rubbish had gone off the car but it was still parked there. Parking in Luanda is almost impossible so it's not uncommon to be blocked in or find vehicles parked across footpaths.
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| Rubbish day |
August 14, out from 0730-1400 on the polio vaccination trail on the outskirts of Luanda with some friends. We paired up and managed to give polio sips to +150 (each pair)...many children were unattended by parents so often it was the older community children who brought the under-5's to us for the vaccine. Many of the children took it stoically..opening their mouths for the dose and then having their finger marked...but some were dragged to us and heads forced back while the whole pack were laughing that it was someone else's turn. We trekked in and out of the musseques amongst absolute poverty. It was good to be contributing something back to the community. Everyone was welcoming and thankful, especially the many new mothers.
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| Immunisation programme organisers |
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| Front yard art |
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| Receiving the vaccines |
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| Community kids looking out for each other |
August 22, time for holiday. We are off to Portugal for 3 weeks. But firstly, toilet humour in Luanda:
I spotted toilet paper at the supermarket called 'Buttsoft'... and then found this descriptive photo in the local casa do banho (toilets).
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| Can't wait! |
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