The van Dijks Go On Leave: Luanda October/November 2014

October 14, Time has rapidly disappeared since arriving back from Holland. After my 3 1-hour Portuguese lessons at home during the week, I zoom across town to join class at Alliance Francaise for another 2 hours. The teacher speaks virtually no English (French and Portuguese) so on my first lesson I was quite overwhelmed. It was such a challenge to use a combination of guessing, knowing and asking to understand what was required. Total emersion it is! Three weeks in and I am managing to keep up and was thrilled to be able to speak and converse in class, something I had been reluctant to do at home. Last week for an exercise the teacher asked us all to state how many of the students names' we knew. I thought I knew maybe 75% but I told the teacher I didn't know his name. As he told me his name I started writing it down which caused much hilarity in the class. I had written down what he said 'Aidemim' - meaning 'Alas! (sadly, you don't know my name). His name is Kama. So, perhaps I am not understanding as much as I thought. It's equally fun, scary and uplifting. This week it's been very difficult trying to figure out what's going on...I can do the work and understand most of it but I don't understand what he wants from me. Back tomorrow morning.

As the weather has improved I have swum 3-4 times per week in the afternoon. And currently we have Mali staying so an early and evening walk with her.
Having some photo issues so will add another time.

Today I joined some friends after Bible study to a restaurant on the Ilha for lunch. The first real sunny day for a while so it was lovely to sit outside and be near the Ocean. Nice company and food. The only sad thing to see was a little boy taking a very small puppy out in to the water time and again and let it 'swim' back to shore. The poor thing didn't get it's breath back and it was taken out again. Joelle went to tell him off in her teacher role and he did listen. But no doubt the same or another puppy will have his turn again very soon. You gotta be tough around here.

October 19, a couple of outings recently. Joelle's 50th and Whale watching on the BP boat.

Turning 50

Ladies of a certain age

Unfortunately I didn't get any clear pics of the whales (could be something to do with the fact that the antiemetic tablet I took against sea-sickness, put me to sleep!) but we did see them. Lot's of snorting and squealing and water blowing, also tail flashing. We had lunch on a lovely island in the sun.

October 23, A few welcome days at home. In class I told everyone I was born in 1767...oh dear. Time to get on with study.

Walking by

Fellow student, Joyce from Congo

Justine from South Africa, and I at Alliance Francaise

October 25, Decided to use the voice translator installed on my ipad. I spoke my bestest Portuguese:
'Eles vao viver para o Algarve' (they go to live in the Algarve).
The translation came back as:
Ernest goes to the altar...something didn't go quite right there! Great fun.

October 29, Back to AF and managed some photo's today.

Alliance Francaise de Luanda

Out and about selling

View from AF

Chat corner

Always holding hands

Unusual to see a man carrying things on his head

Passing the time

I love to see these guys playing checkers beside the road everywhere in Luanda. The board is homemade cardboard, and the checkers are red and blue bottle tops. The simple life.

I just heard from Ilenia (Italian friend) that her maid died this morning on the way to the clinic. 42 years old and just collapsed in the street. RIP Antonia.

Yes, we have empregada's (maids) here in Luanda. More on that subject another time...

October 30, spent some time at the clinic again (6 hours this time - with previous experience I was content having taken my book, paracetamol and water). Always a humbling experience being surrounded by many who have less. I heard (unverified) that women here are permitted 1 hour free hospital care for childbirth so it is not unusual to see hoards of women waiting at the gates, presumably in labour. People being wheeled past on rickety old trolleys through the halls of the 'ship container' hospital/clinic. Then same patients left waiting, with no blanket covering, in the waiting room while the orderly went off on another call. When I went in for my blood test, I was surprised to find a man lying semi-comatose on a bed in my cubicle hooked up to i.v. medication. Still, the people are friendly; even welcomes the new person into the waiting room and an elderly man offered me his seat. Frequent power-cuts and mosquito's and again a doctor who spoke no English. But thankfully this time I could interpret some of what she was saying. Back tomorrow for results.

Home with our two return guests, Felix and Boris, who have discovered the joys of ipad game for cats. They are real fun to watch, catching their mice. Boris, who is on hunger-strike because he doesn't have the right biscuits, throws the imaginary mouse into his mouth then swallows it! I think we may need a Cat Whisperer...

Boris and Felix on mouse duty

and a fish or two for variation

Their new scratch toy to preserve the furniture.

Destroyer kitty

Duty done

October 31, back to the clinic. I no longer have faith in the clinic. First, my results were lost (so I had to repeat them). Today, they were lost again but at least located. I was told last time that blood levels were high, now they are normal (without having a further blood test so not sure how they figured that). With an abnormal ultrasound result and symptoms I should see a specialist but, I will do that in another country.
Waiting in the sun for Edgar was nice, people watching as I love to do.

These boys are on every road, every few metres, selling phone cards

All dressed up...with a theatre cap!

November 5th, Goat on a tanker! Picture shared on LBW website but fairly common sight here.

Only in Luanda

November 7, out with Jaa and Mali and another new Thai friend, Noi, to TICA (International Women's group) and then the China markets with a little food place. Not even a restaurant..just a small room with a couple of tables and a cooker. Delish steamed wontons, dipping sauce and egg pancake.

At the International event..I bought this lovely basket. Purple of course...

Noi and I

Noi, Jaa and I at the International women's event

Getting some shade for her baby

Home to find that the air conditioning is not working (temps above 25 at night), tv not working, power erratic. BUT, we got a new decoder, installed very quickly by the team. Installed as is in the photo...check out the warning sticker!

Caution! Remove wrapping before installation

November 9, what a crazy week. I was advised to return the same afternoon to the clinic last Friday to be seen by a Specialist. Another 3 hours to be advised the 'c' word was a possibility and I should have a needle biopsy, which would not be done here in Angola. Most likely I would fly to Johannesburg. I waited a whole week where nobody knew what to do with me. I returned again to the clinic Friday just gone on the advice of the Specialist to be rescanned with him present. The BP nurse accompanied me to ensure there were no errors in translation this time. Another 3 1/2 hours waiting. While we were waiting the nurse explained that the Specialist wanted me to have a second opinion so another doctor would be present. Finally time for scan. I walked in to find exactly the same person scanning me as last time. No doctor. It seems a second opinion here is being scanned again by the same person! Or the nurse had the second opinion. Whichever way you want to look at it. Anyway, results were different to last time so goodness knows what is happening. I decided to forget about it unless anything drastically changes.

We went along to the Remembrance Day Memorial Service at the British embassy this morning. Very concise, and clear service under the Angolan sun...then for a nice lunch with Filipa and Andy,(Portuguese teacher and her husband, Andy, who is 2nd in command at British embassy) and boys, also Ilenia and Henry and boys.

Andy (left) and John (Ambassador)

Flags erected and speaking by Amanda, John, Andy and Jill (Ambassadors wife and friend)

It's Movember!

More white coming through now but also reddish

Dad says you should check out the rules for MO-vember Liam!

A notice forwarded to us about an upcoming, planned demonstration:

Dear colleagues,

There’s a possibility of disturbance due to a new protest to performed by the "Angolan Youth Revolutionary group", which will take place in Luanda on 22nd and 23rd of November 2014,

The group of young activists entitled ‘’Angolan Revolutionary Movement’’ aims to express concerns and thus requiring towards Africa and the world.

Similar to the last events, this group will start the journey at Largo da Independência by 15:00 pm (concentration), and 22:00 pm on front of constitutional court, and at 23:00 pm taking their way to the Presidential Palace (Rua 17 de Setembro).

Please avoid exposing yourself to those locations as it might be risky.

November 13, we enjoyed a quiet Independence day (11th) at home. Yesterday I visited a nice little French café then, June and I went onto the supermarket. A surreal experience amidst the pre-Christmas buzz...Roger Whittaker singing about his Winter Wonderland, also a motorbike available to buy in the middle of the supermarket! Countless homeless people on the roads, alot of beggars, often walking on their extremely calloused hands and mega-amounts of alcohol for sale.
This morning I went out for a walk with Nancy on the Marginal...and now home, hoping our air conditioning units are fixed properly today. 30 plus degrees at 0800 now and stifling hot with no AC.

November 17, AC fixed! I had a lovely lunch with lots of Italian women last Thursday... Rukaya (south African friend) and I were the honorary English speaking guests to a beautiful feast of Venezuelan and Italian foods. Then, Friday evening Jeroen and I attended the Kaposoka Orchestra at the Fort.

Established in October 2008 with 67 children and three instructors, this orchestra is currently composed of 1,050 performers between the ages of 6 and 18, all of whom come from some of Luanda’s most poverty-stricken neighborhoods, and who attend the Samba district’s public elementary schools. The Koposka School serves to attract those boys and girls who are dissatisfied with their lives and see the music as an alternative to criminal actions, which are instead supplanted by wholesome entertainment.

The Kaposoka Symphony Orchestra is funded by the Angolan Government’s social welfare and poverty reduction program. Government funds cover the costs of instruments, shelter and the professor’s salaries. The students receive free uniforms, food, classes and instruments. In addition to this, children also benefit from Kaposoka’s civic and environmental lessons. (from Maxam). I didn't get any good photo's but this one below shows them wearing the same costumes earlier in the year in Madrid.

Orchestra Kaposoka, performing in Madrid

On Saturday I went with Jaa and Mali to the new supermercado Kero. With the heavy traffic and searing heat, we were none too impressed when we were turned away from the supermarket! We had already driven into the dedicated lane for entering the carpark when the security guards got very agitated and told us that dogs were not allowed into the supermarket. We explained of course that Mali would be staying in the car. But no, a group of 6 of them became more upset so we decided to retreat. And to do this we had to advance in order to try and drive over the centre concrete divider between entrance and exit. With a line of cars behind us blaring their horns and the security guards getting more cross because they thought we were just trying to drive ahead we finally made our exit and will gladly never visit this supermarket again.

My new house pets.

Big fella on our wall

Gifted from recently departed (from Luanda) kiwi friend, Bev..

November 22, A busy week with trips out on the boat, to a jazz festival, swimming, and the International school gala.

Thursday , 5 of us went on a leisurely cruise around the coast to Praia da Santiago, or Shipwreck Beach as it's known by expats. Truly pristine, clear water and fascinating geology, also the many shipwrecked sea vessels.

Abandoned relics

The crew: Cheryl (USA), Nancy (Taiwan), Me, Oxy and Inga (former USSR)

Back home for a swim and to find the cats. Felix thought he would make himself a Christmas present (inside Santa Sack) and Boris is checking out whether he can fit too.

Secret Santa?

Friday night and out for the Luanda 9th Jazz Festival...starting at 22.30hours! Kept myself awake easily with really very good live music from a variety of Norwegian and Angolan artists. A bit of champagne and a caipirinha (Brazil cocktail) and a nice buffet. Wonderful atmosphere.

Saturday and to the International school's gala day. Very very hot day...

The Kiwi, Thai and Angolan dog visit the Colombian stall

Portugal

NZ is represented!

And the Netherlands

USA

My Italian friends: Cristina and Francesca

Nicolena

Daniela and Sharona

Edgar and Mr Movember

Keep Calm and Love Israel

Angolan crafts

Mum and baby

November 30, crazy week, supporting Jaa and Mali who is very sick. Backwards and forwards to clinic as Mali has severe platelet deficiency, marked bruising all over her and supposed early DIC. We have been chasing to get oral Vitamin K as she reacted badly to the injection. Still haven't found it. She needed an urgent blood transfusion so it was a chase to find someone with a healthy dog who would be willing. Finally I found an Italian woman who gave us her dog. And then a whole day Friday ...picking dog up, getting him shaved, failed attempt at bleeding...new vet, sedated, wait for sedation, bleed, then a very long time waiting for him to wake up. And then getting him home again. Then Mali's turn..another 5 hours for transfusion and wait time after. I came home a bit earlier and made dinner for us all. And yesterday we went back to clinic to recheck her levels. Thankfully platelets improved a bit but now secondary infection also so further antibiotics. Every single thing is so difficult here. Just have to be patient and go with the flow. I have also been orientating a South African friend and Thai friend who are new to Luanda. So, long days out and about showing them the ropes. Last night we had dinner with South Africa/ Dutch friends. Nice evening although it took 2 hours waiting for the driver to bring us home.

This morning joined the Angola Field group for a historic walking tour around Luanda. I have been wanting to do this for ages but security is always an issue. Sunday seems to be the best day to go. Very very hot and dehydrating but fascinating insight into a small part of the architectural history of downtown Luanda.

Downtown Luanda

Very old houses in Luanda

Our walking tour guide, Architect Angela

Strong roots

0800 Sunday morning, time for a Cuca (beer) - they yellow cans on the stool

Why stop?

Much laughter at us taking photo's of their house

We walked up the hill on the original slave route. If you were walking up this hill as a slave, you knew you were on your way to be hanged at the Fort.

This young guy impressed us with his one-footed in-line skating up and down a steep hill

December shedding

Overlooking the city from the Fort

The mass behind the boats is floating rubbish

Electricity came to Luanda in 1877..there are a few of these original lamps from that time

This wall once housed a multitude of slaves who were shackled to the walls

Policia, not going anywhere very fast

Local Porsche dealer, downtown

Rat exterminator

View of our delicious ice-cream parlour, Be Delicious

Solitary man

Sleeping it off- a common sight every day

Some buildings are wonderfully preserved. This icecream vendor (front left) has an annoying 'Mr Whippy'-type musical jingle playing ALL day. Drives me bonkers.

Wassup? Young drogo

One of the first streets of Luanda

Could be in Portugal

Local barbereia-poster showing types of hair weave and a sneak-view into this mans home

Young polio guy

Young guy and his pup

Group looking at the historic shell wall with Chinese 'Golden' building being built in background

The shells integrated with concrete are seen in building structures all over Luanda. After the Dutch were ousted, collaborators were made to pick up these shells and grind them as punishment. The practice lasted 300 years and now the mollusc is extinct.

View of Torres Atlantico (our apartment) seen through gate

Historic house once lived in by early abolitionist. There was a plan to demolish and replace with a 12 story building. The Historic preservation society intervened and the billboard advertising the new building was removed but likely plans are still afoot to demolish.