Saturday, 1 March 2014

March in Luanda, time for Carnaval

1 March, we set out at 0730 to meet friends, Alex and Cynara to take our kayaks out on their maiden voyages. 2 hours on the water, puttering between shipwrecks and navigating other boats (and happy people swimming out to talk with us!) was more than enough for our first outing. 37 degrees today..sizzling at the street market where we bought very good tomatoes, mango, plums and capsicum.

Setting forth on the Ilha of Luanda

Three things I learned about kayaking: 1. Don't put handcream on hands before kayaking. 2. Check there are no salt-water crocodiles BEFORE going out on the water. (there are none but if you don't know that before you go, you will still believe they may be there) 3. Use paddles up the right way.


Market day
Juicy, warm, tasty and messy!
Making way for new apartments - thousands of homes bulldozed

It was a shock to discover that thousands of 'shacks' were bulldozed, evicting families living there to Viana, miles away from these homes.

4 March, Carnaval time!  Every year in the three days leading up to Ash Wednesday, a huge carnival is held. Groups on floats wear colourful costumes and amazing headgear and perform dances such as the semba. At the end of the carnival, prizes are awarded for the best costumes and dancers.

Although we chose not to attend we saw many brightly clothed people making their way to the festivities. Carnaval is a big thing here in Luanda. The major road is closed, linking city to south Luanda for over a week - because of Carnaval. Children are not in school - because of Carnaval. Drinking/Violence increases - because of Carnaval.


5 March, I looked out our lounge window today to see something that made me look twice. Two bus loads of snowy-haired (mostly) tourists alighting, camera's in hand, to saunter into the Portuguese church across the road! The Port of Luanda has developed to now include an arrivals terminal and it is expected that 4-5 cruise ships will be entering port over this year. Filipa (our Portuguese teacher) tells me that she has witnessed this sight for the last year now and each convoy is accompanied by at least 2 ambulances.

7 March, A visit to the British Embassy here in Luanda for the Luanda British Women's AGM. Unfortunately I had to leave as not well. So many viruses lately; I feel like my body is under attack.
Get well soon Jen. x

8 March, Feliz Anniversario Edgar! Edgar is 33 today. A short supermarket visit (still feeling dizzy and have brain freeze) - home to scrub vegies, make marmalade and have a quiet day.


The construction site beside our building has a cordoned-off area for the workers and machinery/tools. This morning we spotted this fella a bit worse for wear. (look closely, centre picture). Unfortunately this is a common sight in Luanda over the weekend (including Wednesday - Tuesday!).

March 11, finally feeling good enough to get out on my bike! Bliss, riding along free, along the foreshore....only to skid off and fly through the air ...


..managed to walk home to nurse my very swollen knee and melon size egg on other shin. Youchies, but so thankful no major damage done. The scariest part was lying on the pavement for a full minute while I figured out injuries and not one person stopped to check on me. But ok, better off than this fellow below who I doubt anyone checks on, ever.


March 13, back to the supermarkets (3, to get basics that the others don't have at the time). I mistakenly pointed to something I wasn't sure of on the side of the road (looked like dead, trussed, feathered chickens to me). Within seconds, the seller(s - there were 4 of them), including women with dozens of eggs being carried on their heads came with their LIVE chickens and flapped them in my windows. Edgar laughed at my NO, NO, NO! I couldn't stand to see the animals treated this way.

After this I managed to get out of the car to go inside 1st supermarket. Coming out of this place I was surrounded by a group of young boys, no more than age 10. They followed me to the car, as Edgar was busy sounding the horn. After I hurriedly got in the car at Edgar's insistence, several of the boys jumped on the car as Edgar was yelling at them. I knew not to give them anything otherwise we wouldn't be able to move the car when dozens of them would arrive. As we drove off I was informed that they were drogado's - street kids, addicted to cocaine which sells for 10 USD. Very sad.

These other older boys in the following photo sit waiting for clients to come and they will help them park their car. Meanwhile they shield from the sun. (well, one does while another wears his woolly hat!).
They are sitting outside a favourite shop of mine with home wares. I love the Portuguese buildings. This is a typical one; pink with white wrought iron and paint work.


March 15, Back to visit BenFica market today. This tall mulhere (woman) towered over me. I didn't buy much today, just some fabrics in preparation for quilting. A nice swim with jeroen in the afternoon. Cruisey day.


March 17, I have organised for Edgar to pick up a friend to come over to apartment tomorrow. This is is reply:
'Good evening Madame sheron I spoke to your friend so I focused on combined scoring the car in park to take a bucket I'll plant the towers 8.30 thanks for me to target.'

Will Henriette get here? And will I get a bucket of plants at the towers? TBC....

March 18, I DID get a bucket of plants! Henriette took lots of cuttings so I now have a 'garden' on my balcony. Photo to come. The message wasn't quite clear though as Edgar turned up here not at Henriette's to pick her up.

A lovely day with my Bible study friends walking, eating/drinking, chatting, Bible study then a swim.

March 19, out and about with Jaa and Mali. We went to a fabric market with 7 other women and the drivers were our 'guards'. Fantastic store of goodies.









Out fishing on the BP boat with Jaa and Sarah. A great 6 hours out on the Atlantic Ocean. Before we sailed this clever (and well attired!) fellow impressed us with his fishing style.






We caught 4 dorado. I caught the first one, the second biggest of the day. Sounds impressive right? Those are very heavy fish so really the three of us sat and watched the lines be set by the crew, fish reeled in when our arms couldn't manage it (except Jaa who brought the two littlies in) and they also hooked, gutted and filleted our catch. So, ladies fishing I think!


I was quite gutted when the first one was brought in as it is such a beautiful fish. Gorgeous greens/blues/yellows/pinks...







Time to head home. A lot of fresh fish for the freezer...



...and for tea tonight! Tasty.



March 23, off to church then a sweltering walk. Great to see a cycling road race happening - I hardly ever see another cyclist when I'm out, let alone 40-50 cyclists.



My favourite clock - Luanda Port clock that tells two different times, neither of them correct.

It's Sunday - car wash and body/clothes wash day. Every weekend people gather with their buckets at the vacant lot across the road to do their ablutions. We can be very thankful for running water.