October 24. Back in Luanda - lovely to see Edgar who picked me up from the airport (he had e-mailed me to confirm he would 'catch Madame' off the plane) and of course wonderful to be back with Jeroen.
It is the season of heavy rains and the weather did change rapidly from balmy to torrential rain in a short time. As there is no storm water drainage here, the street below our apartment became a river.
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| Heavy rain and chaos on the roads |
October 30. Back to the orphanage to see Gabriel (the aggressive blind boy who can't walk)..the other women were outside already with a child each when i arrived so I went inside and called out 'ola Gabriel' as I walked in the room. That little boy was jumping up and down in his cot laughing. We had a great morning together with the other children.
On a different note, I had arranged for Edgar to pick me up at 1200 horas. When I came out he wasn't there and I watched the other's drive away with a small sense of dread - Edgar is very reliable so I knew he would turn up though. As I had earlier chosen to leave my bag in the car so as not to have to watch it in the orphanage I had no idea when Edgar would arrive. And so an hour and a half later the realisation that I really was in a situation that was potentially dangerous hit me. No English speaking people around, no phone, no phone numbers, standing in the scorching sun, no water, no EDGAR where are you!? Finally he did arrive (he was stuck in BIG traffico, Madame) - but my mistakes were highlighted well and truly to me. How not to do things is a way of learning too!
Back to supermarkado shopping, traffic and kamikaze scooter drivers, learning Portuguese, church, walking on the Marginal and meeting new people.
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| Music worship team at church |
It is good to be back home. Yes, Mam, I have to call it that now. But it's home in NZ also with you. :)
November 2. Nice Skype with Mam and Dad today then power off for a while followed by very loud announcement on intercom (in Portuguese then English) to evacuate the building due to a reported fire. That gets you moving quickly on a Saturday morning! But, halfway down stairs, announcement to say false alarm. So, a bit of exercise, excitement and opportunity to meet some new neighbours.
Edgar has the day off today as he and the family are going to the cemetery to take flowers to his parents grave. I think that's what's happening.
November 3. Out for a walk together and seems it's Impala Appreciation Time. Impala are mid-size African antelope found in South Angola. I haven't seen any real ones yet but spotted these arty ones.
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| Impala on the Marginal |
Notice the many cranes and construction work here in Luanda. The Impala below stands in front of Torres Atlantico, Jeroen's work building. Our residential apartment is directly behind it.(unseen in photo)
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| Impala outside a local restaurant |
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| Ice cream day on the Marginal |
November 4. Goodbye Candy Crush at level 169 - you did my head in. :-{
November 5. Thinking of my Grandad, going out with a bang, 5 years ago.
Yesterday loud explosions (enough to feel the walls of the apartment move) rang out and people were coming out to see what was going on. I had no idea what was happening (are there terrorists? is the building falling down? is there earth ending?). Jeroen and his colleagues could see flashes coming from the port so most likely it was target practice...more like cannon practice it was so loud. I've never heard anything like it.
And the other day on the Marginal, a truckload of old rifles being unloaded onto the ground. There were hundreds of them. I haven't been able to find out what they were for.
November 8. Out with Edgar, singing in the car. He is a fan of the 'Black street Boys' and Celine Dion.
Mr President (Big Boss as Edgar calls him) out and about with his entourage today so got stuck in much traffico.
Enjoyed my first Pilates class at the apartment gym. I wasn't expecting it to be in Portuguese! But it went fine although had trouble locating my core. Too many chip pies Chick!
November 11, Pap's 2nd 73rd birthday :) and a National holiday here in Angola celebrating liberation from Portuguese rule in 1975.
Celebratory fireworks at midnight and there-after a seemingly normal day on the streets - beggars begging, homeless people sleeping off alcohol in the midday sun and street people washing their bodies and clothes in puddles. Liberation from what I wonder?
Supermarket adventure: Time to stock up on toilet paper - after wandering the shop for 20 minutes, with no English signs or speaking people I was tempted to act out toilet paper! Finally a woman speaking Porto-English came and asked if I needed something and she showed me to the toilet paper. I found specially printed (and priced) Christmas themed toilet paper, around 6 packages of it. When I told her I would like just plain paper she replied that they were finished with that paper!
You may laugh about me acting out toilet paper in the supermarket but anyone who has lived in a non-English speaking country knows how difficult it can be to get your point across. This week has seen me oinking and toot-tooting when trying to get Edgar to understand the subject of pigs and trains. Big hoots of laughter from him. I did have to repeat the pig sound a few times before he got it though.
November 14, a couple of pics that reflect true Luanda - As I am still hesitant at taking photo's of the people, I have copied photographs from the internet.
Tonight we're off to the Viking Club where Henriette and Tako (Angola Field Group heads) have an invited guest speaker about Team Angola, the first time African sailing team to enter the Cape (south Africa) to Rio (Brazil) race.
Their story begins a couple of decades ago when some of the team members, sons of local fishermen on the Ilha, joined sailing classes offered by Clube Naval. Our presenter, Captain Tita Correia da Silva, gave a brief background of Clube Naval, the second oldest naval club in Africa, and introduced us to his team and sketch out details of the race. Steeped in history and known the world over as one of the longest ocean crossings the race will take the team 25 days and encounter strong winds and lowest breezes over the course. Angola is fiercely proud of their country's representation on the water.
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| Captain and crew, Team Angola |
November 16. Out with a colleague of Jeroen's to a new 'Ikea' in Luanda.
On the way we saw these little 'Kawasaki' impersonators with any number of variations on the name. This little Kawaseki ran out of petrol on the road soon after we saw him.
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| Kawasaki replica- number one |
Ikea, a huge homeware chain in Europe is a favourite place for us to visit when in Holland. So, to imagine a place like that here was a bit of a joke. But, Kinda Home (store) was a lovely find full of modern, reasonably priced, African toned homeware. We enjoyed lunch there also then took a 2 hour trip to get home.
Edgar thought he would avoid the incredibly busy traffic by detouring through a very poor part of Luanda but alas, we took 40 minutes longer to get home than our friends. Still, they missed the swimming the car through HUGE puddles in the village that we got to experience!
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| Keweseki number two floats across huge puddle |
And this little Keweseki had to be pushed out of the puddle. Note the plastic visor covering still on in our car.
I always like to see the people on market day.
November 20, back to the orphanage. My little friend Gabriel now knows we are coming and is full of squeals and delight. And has a big paddy when we leave..I discovered he loves zooming around in a wheelchair. So I borrow one off the other children (when they have gone to play on the floor) and off we go; up and down ramps. Sweat dripping by the time to go home but worth it so see him smile.
This is a picture from the first time we met...an unhappy, frustrated little boy. I'll try to update photo if I am allowed by the Mama's at the orphanage.
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| Gabriel |
I planted vegies on my balcony on Saturday and they're sprouted already! Hoping to have lettuces, peppers, cucumber and courgettes in the future.
November 22, Jeroen and I went out on the BP boat today with our crew Sabinda and Pedro.
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| Having a chuckle with the crew |
We scoured the Atlantic Ocean and to the beautiful island of Mussulo. Actually, it's not an island but a large sandbank formed by sedimentation from the River Kwanze connecting the Atlantic with mainland Africa.
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| Island chapel |
We hopped off to visit the National Slavery Museum a beautiful 17th century building housing a not so beautiful reflection of historic Angola.
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| Angola slavery museum |
Opened in 1997 the museum houses hundreds of pictures and tools that were used to oppress slaves in Angola. The building was used to Baptise the slaves before they were sent off in boats to America.
Back into port - the Portuguese destroyed all ships in port when Angola gained independence so there are many shipwrecks still around.
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| Shipwrecks |
November 23. Thanksgiving dinner tonight with BP residents here in the building. Nice to meet new people and sample Pumpkin pie, turkey and my kiwifruit, pineapple, typical Kiwi summer fruit salad that was meant to be a main meal 'fruity salad' gave a laugh.
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| Festive table |
This is the residents dining room facility for events like this. Nice to have a common area together.
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| Me, Luisa, Diane, Monika, Laurie |
Out with Edgar in the car and we got pulled over because he'd gone through a red light (everyone does it as the traffic lights are not working 75 % of the time). But, everything was ok Edgar proudly told us as he'd shown the officer a special card that proved his brother was a Police officer. So, off we went.
Can you have my card ready for when I come home Wade? ;)
November 24th, Kourtoum is an African Muslim who has made a commitment to Christianity and today was to be Baptised. However due to the electrical pool pump not working, there was no water so baptism postponed to next weekend. God Willing!
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| Kourtoum and I |
My friend Jaa has headed home to Thailand for a couple of weeks so her little cutie Mali, joins me in the afternoons for company.
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| Little Miss Mali, quite comfortable |
December 2, there are 7 men here to change our broken air conditioning unit! With temperatures of 30-34 we will be grateful.
Last weekend there was a 'manifesto' here in Luanda - ie a peoples peaceful protest. Two young men who were allegedly abducted and killed last year sparked a public outcry. Just before the protest last Saturday, another young man, who led the youth protest was killed for allegedly running away after being apprehended for pasting threat to President welfare posters. At his funeral on Tuesday the funeral procession (all wearing yellow) was stopped with threat of water cannons and tear gas was deployed for having no authorisation for foot traffic.
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| Tear gas used |
So, the mourners/protestors all caught buses to the cemetery. As the funeral was near the orphanage there was prior advice to stay away from the area so no cuddles with Gabriel this week.
I saw this young chap playing on the grass beside the Marginal.
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| Music on the Marginal |
He didn't sound that great but he was encouraged by our interest of him to keep playing. Many Angolans are embracing study/music/fitness and utilising the walkway for these things.
This last week I met Beverly another Kiwi here in Luanda. She has two little dogs who may also need my dog-sitting services so perhaps I'll become the cat/dog lady of Luanda?
Edgar, knowing my interest in animals thoughtfully pointed 'Dog, Madame' the other day while we were out driving. Indeed, there was a dog...dead in the middle of the main highway. A lot of Angolans are bemused by our Western love of animals.
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| Alfredo and I |
This is my friend Alfredo (owned by the Italian family I met when we first arrived). Alfredo is a rescue cat from the UK who has taken a shine to me. His sister, Violetta, is a bit shy but smoochy as well.
December 3, Today I went to the Benfica art market. There were many vendors selling bone carvings, paintings, and wood work. There were also a cheetah skins, ivory carvings and a hung cat. So a very mixed place to visit.
I bought this painting from the artist (Proenca)who was on site today.
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| Sand painting |
December 5, off to Angola Field Group presentation tonight; The Angola Choir - Voice of Angels. Beautiful a capella voices and drum. Aside from getting horribly lost down dark and dirt roads and ending up not picking up a friend as planned, we both got there in time to enjoy the evening.
I bought this doll made by local women of Huambo, the Province and town where the AFG recently visited on a 4 day trip.
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| Doll from the Province of Huambo |
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